petzl team

Said Belhaj's blog

www.petzlteam.com

Keyword - Red River Gorge

Rudeboy Rock October 15, 2007

After 2 days of resting my leg and hoping for it to heal a little bit it was time to climb. But not only that, it was also the main day of the event -first the "flash rally" and then the big party!

I managed to walk up to the "Motherload" and found it packed with people. I teamede up with Steve and started warming up. The leg felt ok in all moves but highstepping and heelhooking. Ok, that'll do...

                     the "warmupwall" at the Motherload during the flash rally


After a 4 warmups we headed for the "madness cave". Steve cruised a 7c+ and I did a classic 8a. But the leg didn't like it. I thought it might be better to climb some easier stuff so we moved back to the easier routes. Well there we got into rally mode. After 10 routes that day (and almost falling of the last 6c 'cause I was so pumped!) we had to return our scorecards and check out at 4 o'clock. What we didn't know was that we had actually won the race but there was more good stuff to that day besides climbing.

  on the long and steep 8a in the madness cave during the rally. photo: john evans/petzl

Back at the festival area the place was allready filling up. After a local bluegrassband, Timmy Oneall madness and the local rapper Odub it was time for me, DJ LaFouche and VJ Guillaume (aka the Sagagnass sound system) to enter the stage as allwas before at the Roctrips. We didn't really know what to expect of the 400 people -would they dig the electro-percussion-psyanimation concept? -Hell yeah! After 1 second the whole place looked like any raveparty anywhere with lightstick and peolpe loosing it to the fullest...

           the very nice and very cosy climbingfestivalarea just before it turned into a raveparty...


nobody has so far been able to resist the force of sagagnas sound system.
photo: john evans/petzl

And now, it's all over... The tents are down, the crowds are leaving. Some of us are still here. The sunday after had still some festivalfeeling to it. We went climbing, I was happy to do an 8a and 8b OS. Then pizza at Miguels... I guess we could go on like this forever. Soon to be continued...

From Boulder to the Red October 12, 2007

So, I'm in the middle of a flashback right now-first climbing in Boulder, Colorado and then the Red in Kentucky, just the same as last fall.

As allways in Boulder I stayed with my friend Christian "Verve" Griffith and climbed with both new and old friends. Some people I would now later join up with here in the Red -Tony and Isa, Lynn, Abbey, Jason, Melissa, Dave...

Veterans Christina Griffith and Lynn Hill knows teamwork is the way forward, mt Evans.

In Boulder we went mostly...bouldering. It seemed to be the right thing to do with so much good stuff around+no one was really psyched for routes. Christina didn't eaven own a harness anymore. The conditions were perfect and we eaven had the first snow for the season one day.

I also had a few days of routeclimbing including the surprizingly good Clear Creek+oldie but goldie Eldorado Canyon.

                                    Hooking up an 8a+ OS in clear creek as the snow was well on its way

Crimping mt Evans style

Trying to stay warm at clear creek with Lynnie

But as allways I never have enough time so I was soon back in the aeroplane on my way east. After leaving a pretty cold Colorado it was nice to arrive in an almost tropical Kentucky. First day we went to the "Motherload" sector where I also hooked up with some friends from Sweden -the "8a.nu lucky looser" team. Tried to stay cool on some easy 13's not to trash myself after so much bouldering. The day after we went with Steve, Gerhard and Erwan to the "chocolate factory" to try some of the so called bounty routes (Petzl Roctrip comp routes). They both seemed possible but maybe too hard to do in only 2 days...

We moved on to the "drive by" crag where Dani, Gerome and Tony had just cleaned up. Tony just did a good looking 13d/14a and I got really exited to try. Bad idea. I hurt my knee really bad in a nasty toe/heel lock. I'm currently jumping on one leg and looking in the guidebook for routes where only a right leg will be requried... to be continued...

Trying one of the "bounty routes" at the chocolate factory, RRG