petzl team

Said Belhaj's blog

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Keyword - Bouldering

Post time the voyage takes an unexpected turn... March 1, 2009

- Bouldering - Rock climbing

emotional landscapes

so, I'm typing with only one hand right now... post the Red Dragon trip life had some completly new chalenges in store. my first answer to this was to try to escape on yet another trip to find my right place and light in the darkness. thailand is a good place find some kind of focus and get absorbed by the almost dreamlike landscape. tonsai beach is a good place to look for nice people, good food+drinks (you got to love the mango/coconut shakes!), diving, a different pace and some fine rockclimbing.

the worlds hardest 7c "Hang Ten", or is it just me? photo: Terje Aamodt/www.terjeaamodt.com

"Asian Shadowplay" 8a+ os. photo: Terje Aamodt/www.terjeaamodt.com

the opposite direction

"The King and I", 5 pitches, 7b+ max. leaving everything behind... photo: Terje Aamodt/www.terjeaamodt.com

back in Gothenburg everything was what you would expect at this time of the year. you'll just have to try to make the best out of it; friends, family, music, qigong, climbing (and also as in comp climbing). I eaven got myself a skate board to try a new kind of therapy.

gig with Salomon Helperin, Domkyrkan, Gothenburg

jam at restaurant Bazar, Gothenburg

one thing I will remember was my "comeback" at the comp scene; I've had a strange feeling in my left index finger since Thailand and at the comp it gave up on me. the pulling tendon snaped when I tried to use a bolthole as a one finger... I was happy to see how well the swedish hospital system works as I got surgery almost right away.


so this...


led to this..!

it's a minimum of 4 months of from climbing and then start slowly. it's my biggest break from climbing in over 15 years so it will, to say the least, be interesting to see how this goes! I also want to thank the over 100 people that in different ways have and are supportingt me; family, friends and eaven some people I don't really know. but nothing is over yet -the voyage continues!

and meanwhile you can check this 2M documentary (in french/arabic):




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the inner voyage: the Red Dragon Tour 2008 February 3, 2009

- Bouldering - Rock climbing

The 13th of october, me and my friend Carl-Ola Boström set of a climbing trip east that we later on called the Red Dragon Tour. We started by flying to Moscow, then took the Trans Siberian railroad to Ulan Baatar in Mongolia. We experienced climbing, riding, music, food and the traditional and modern life of Mongolia for a few days. Then we continued to China, stayed in Beijing for a few days and then set of south to Yangshuo. We had 3 weeks of amazing climbing, meeting both local and people from around the worl and I started learning the 2 stringed chinese violin, the Er-Hu. The final of the trip was spent climbing around Tokyo in Japan. The same setup; good climbing, loads of nice people, food, hotsprings, old and new Japan and of course some music... Then we finally headed back home on the 10th of december where a new voyage started...

The start of the trip: the Trans Siberian sets of twice a week (I think) at 9.30 p.m. from Moscow.

The mythical country Mongolia and city of Ulan Baatar...

Rocks everywhere...

Heading back home to camp -the nomadic yurta tents.

Entering China

The beauty of Longshen.

The most unique formation and climbing in Yangshuo: Moon Hill.

Calleballekamel on the only boulder you must try in Yangshuo.

With the Er-Hu maestro in Yangshuo.

Back to the Future: Tokyo.

Kyoto

Classic ground: Futago Yama. 8a+ as it's best. 

photo: Hiroaki Yamamoto

Sorting out the shit with Yuji. photo: Hiroaki Yamamoto

   

Final night jam at the Caramba climbing gym.

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Tradeshow, Roctrip and back a.k.a the big family August 7, 2008

- Bouldering - Partying - Rock climbing - RocTrip - Zillertal

After the stay in France it was time to, once again, join the great Petzl family. It felt more like something else than a team now. We didn't just share climbing but everyday life. And that's more than you can say about my routines with my family back in Sweden... We started of at the tradeshow in Freidrikschafen. A massive place with allmost all outdoor companies represented. As allways, Petzl wanted be a bit different and promoted the uppcoming Roctrip in Zillertal with a party at the booth with a pretty clear message. Me, Lafouche and Philippe did the entertaining part and Gerome, Mike and Charlotte made shure that no one was thirsty. I also made did a small perfomance at the Peak Performance booth at their "Black Light" press conferance, met the boys at La Sportiva, Hilleberg and Christian at Verve.


The cow-boys getting ready to climb at Freidrikschafen!

With my man Christian "Verve" Griffith at his booth.

After the show the family moved on to Zillertal in Austria (50 min from Insbruck) wich hoasted one of this years Roctrips (if you happened to have missed that info). Me and Steve got a really nice alpinehut room (I owe you for the kig size bed, buddy!) and we were ready for some more Roctrippin'. This time; rain, climbing, watersliding, late dinners, rain, slideshows, bouldering, sun, more climbing and the big party!

Bouldering at Zillergrund.

Trying Zillmarillion, 8b OS. Photo: Tomas Bartl/http://climbing.tecdogs.at

Legendary Ben Moon and Wills Young at work.

A very nice 8a indeed at one of the towers. Photo: John Evans/www.johnevansphoto.com

The final night at the "Europahaus". Our boys from Iran hade some things to say about climbing and how to dress properly.


The cowboys strike back at the Europahaus! Photo:John Evans/www.johnevansphoto.com

After the big party at the "Europahaus" (over 800 people, there wasn't eaven space for all) that lasted LATE it was time to realize the gathering was to come to an end. The family was to split up. Everyone stared moving in different directions. I took Stevie to the airport and did the 17 hour drive home non stop a muerte. I miss you guys, see next time, whereever that might be...

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Gotemburgo March 5, 2008

- Bouldering - Partying


I'm back in Spain, once again. Everything here is as it' supposed to be -climbing in the sun. The last month I've spent home in Gothenburg. I can't complain though, it's been a really nice time. This winter has been really mild so on the westcoat wev'e had some brilliant climbing conditions.

Island Rock. The bouldering on the Hönö island actually looks better than it climbs. Here Björn "Böna" Strömberg and Mad-Max Boholm actually are climbing something worth climbing. Ok, it's not all that bad but I guess it's all a matter of taste.

Allthough the weather was pretty good I was mostly indoors training. The vertical and bouldery outdoor Gothemburg style wont make you fit for the long and steep spanish fiesta.

"Trärummet" at the climbinggbym 5 minutes from my house. Appart from some notsogood ropeclimbing and some ok bouldering this place has a really badass woodroom: really good campusboard, 3 systemwalls, wooden bachar ladder etc. Good for for training that is.

As we normally don't get any real snow down in the south, you'll have to move north to experience some true winter. And so we did. If youre looking for skiing, Åre is a good place to pick.

Mad-Max Boholm with Åre as backdrop doing a nybörjardrop or should we call it nybörjar 7b? (sorry to all of you nongothenburgish speakers).


And as usuall I had to go to Stockholm for some sponsormeetings, gigs but most of all to see my musicteacher m'allem Christer Bothén. What would I have done without this man's knowledge? Here practicing the dosso n'goni aka the hunters harp from Mali.

In the other end of the music spectrum. The fancy clubgigs doing the percussion bag.

I also went to Copenhagen, spent some quality time with my family and friends, tried tae-kwon-do for the first time, went swimming, biking and running a lot. But officially the main reason I went home was still my photoexebition. 16 black and white portraits from all over the world. You can really make a lot of things of youre time if you are psyched. Now its gonna be 100% climbing for a while again though (and hopefully some music, dancing, shooting...)

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Albarracin and beyond January 18, 2008

- Bouldering

Albarracin -a part of the old world...

So, it's a new year. 2008 started by playing Playstation at Chris and Dailas place, then we went dancing at the legendary club of la Florida until the early hours... a good place to get ready for the new age.
I made a short trip to Gothenburg right after the eave, something I had really looked forward to do. The trip turned out to be a bit different that what I had expected so it was good to get back on spanish soil. This time I had the nutorious Jens Larssen a.k.a "coach" a.k.a "the founder and owner of 8a.nu..." a.k.a "bin Larssen"...with me. We first had some days in Catalunya but soon headed for Aragón and Albarracin (doing Alcezar on the way) to meet up with some old friends from Gotemburgo (and Norway, Luleå and Stocktown). Joder! Ever since Tony (Lamiche) mentioned this place I've been psyched to go. Finally I got there and were welcomed by perfect conditions -crisp and sunny bouldering weather.

doing it all Alabarracin style -Martin Fransson and Micke Hjort, the north VS. the south.

que pasa, tio?

-no sé...

"coach" Larssen pumping up his newest invention -the 8a airpad.

Anders "Vinränk" Lantz confident with having the so called "royal with cheese" (=1 airpad+2 standard pads) to eventually save his ancles.


We rented a nice little bungalow at the Albarracin camping (65-90 €/night) and tuned in. The style here is friendly, not an agressive crimp in sight (well, there were actually some but), sandstone bouldering as it's best (well, maybe not as good as Tennesse fried bouldering or Annot or...) -simply an amazing place. We had some beautiful days (exept the one with snow!) of climbing and also field tested the new airpad.
One restday I took a trip to Madrid to see an old friend, Mariann, eat too much good food, spend loads of money and just spoil myself -what a treat!

the f----ng crazy interior of the Mexican wrestling restaurant in downtown Madrid. I could never tell you how to find it but...don't miss it!

Now I'm back at Danis place, again living the spartan lifestyle of a climber: eat, climb, eat, sleep, eat...

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THE place December 17, 2007

- Bouldering - Rock climbing

I´ve been around here for a while now. There is not much to say than what I dicovered several years ago (and many others with me) -this is THE place for climbing. The areas around Lleida has it all. Now staying with Dani and climbing a muerte day after day, these photos sum up some of the latest weeks of activity...

THE outdoor climbinggym of Ali Baba cave in Rodella. Some of the craziest guys come here after work, in the dark and light candels for magical trainingsessions.

Dani, Andrea and Laurent -another day at the office. Dani on his 9b in Ali Baba/Rodellar.

The beautiful "windows" at the sector "Ventanas", Rodellar.

An old friend from the competion days -Patxi Osoubiaga, now totally ripping it up whereever he goes. Here sining posters in Siurana during a moviepresentaion of his new psicobloc/D.W.S. movie. 

 

Thank good for some music! The new band with me, Chris and Dani getting formed - stay tuned for our next concert at the Roctrip!

 

And yet another new great sector. Laurent on one of his creations somewhere in the endless Montsant.

Tune in...

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Back to the roots October 30, 2007

- Bouldering

Back in Sweden again after yet another trip. It's pretty crazy how these days I don't eaven feel as I've been away when I get back home. Anyway, back I was and it felt pretty good. The season is at it's best right now and the forests are really beautiful with all the wild colours.

After climbing and training back home in Gothenburg for a couple of days, me and my friend Johan decided to pay a visit to an old friend, Anders, who now lives/climbs/studies in the city of Linköping. I went to see him just before leaving for the States and we climbed in the relatively new bouldering area called Knutstorp. As this place is probably one of Swedens better places for bouldering I felt as if it was time to go back. We had an amazing weekend with some really nice bouldering, 2 FA's and, of course, some sauna.

                                       Fall-07 fashion at Knutstorp.

                     Anders "Vinränk" Lantz crimping the shit out of his own testpiece "Gamle Räv".

                                            On the FA of "Pippi Pelikan".

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The deep fried south October 23, 2007

- Bouldering

Time flies...
We moved on further south, me and a bunch of froggies (Tony, Isa, Lafouche, Erwan, Guillaume, Gérome, Fred, etc). Our main target was the mythical bouldering around Chattanooga, Tennessee. First up was the Lilly boulders. Maybe not the best place ever but totally ok as a little break on our way.

Ze lilly boulder, quoi

The nights were spent in suspect motels - there was all kinds of business going on in those joints...- The couples got their own rooms while the rest 5 of us shared a 2 person room - like a big family.

You've got to love these guys

Next day we went to Rock City. And man, was it good? Defenetly one of the best bouldering areas I've ever been to! Climbing all over the place - all angles, difficulties, shapes and holds - a BIG playground. Tony who was here last year took us on a bouldering marathon that lasted well into the dark. Chief Lafouche sent the last problem in the lights of the headlamps.

You've got to love these holds. Photo Fred Labreveux/Grimper

That evening we went out to check the Chattanoogan pulse accompanied by the local climber Ronnie and Timmy Fairfield, who was on tour with La Sportiva.

Next day the bigger part of our team took a rest day (I don't blame them!). Ronnie took me, Tony, Isa, Fred and Sam to a new area, a huge roof - long and physical. We had a good workout that day, I sent late (almost too late that is), and as allways, ending up climbing in the dark.

Last day of climbing but also my 5th day on. I felt pain already warming up but hey, last day in paradise was not going to be spent watching. Little Rock City, another amazing place in Tennessee, I would never had guessed it was THIS good. But finally I had to give up. Tried that last classic, but when you really are done, you are... done.

Desperately trying the last one. Photo Fred Labreveux/Grimper

We packed up. The plan was to sleep halfways to the Louisville airport in Nashville, THE city of country and western (music). And as the lead singer (in one of the 8 bands we had the time to watch that night) said:
this goes out to all of you hillbillys in the crowd. Some of you might not like this, but I love it!

Then the band pumped away another western classic, cowboy hats where flying through the air, boots stamping along with the rythm. We had mighty final of the trip!

The mythical city of Nashville by night

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From Boulder to the Red October 12, 2007

- Bouldering - Red River Gorge - Rock climbing - RocTrip

So, I'm in the middle of a flashback right now-first climbing in Boulder, Colorado and then the Red in Kentucky, just the same as last fall.

As allways in Boulder I stayed with my friend Christian "Verve" Griffith and climbed with both new and old friends. Some people I would now later join up with here in the Red -Tony and Isa, Lynn, Abbey, Jason, Melissa, Dave...

Veterans Christina Griffith and Lynn Hill knows teamwork is the way forward, mt Evans.

In Boulder we went mostly...bouldering. It seemed to be the right thing to do with so much good stuff around+no one was really psyched for routes. Christina didn't eaven own a harness anymore. The conditions were perfect and we eaven had the first snow for the season one day.

I also had a few days of routeclimbing including the surprizingly good Clear Creek+oldie but goldie Eldorado Canyon.

                                    Hooking up an 8a+ OS in clear creek as the snow was well on its way

Crimping mt Evans style

Trying to stay warm at clear creek with Lynnie

But as allways I never have enough time so I was soon back in the aeroplane on my way east. After leaving a pretty cold Colorado it was nice to arrive in an almost tropical Kentucky. First day we went to the "Motherload" sector where I also hooked up with some friends from Sweden -the "8a.nu lucky looser" team. Tried to stay cool on some easy 13's not to trash myself after so much bouldering. The day after we went with Steve, Gerhard and Erwan to the "chocolate factory" to try some of the so called bounty routes (Petzl Roctrip comp routes). They both seemed possible but maybe too hard to do in only 2 days...

We moved on to the "drive by" crag where Dani, Gerome and Tony had just cleaned up. Tony just did a good looking 13d/14a and I got really exited to try. Bad idea. I hurt my knee really bad in a nasty toe/heel lock. I'm currently jumping on one leg and looking in the guidebook for routes where only a right leg will be requried... to be continued...

Trying one of the "bounty routes" at the chocolate factory, RRG

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