Said Belhaj's blog

yet another newly developed crag on the island, somewhere between Pertxas and Lluc.

Mallorca has been on the climbing radar for ages. A few years ago the psicobloc (dws) sceen took of bigtime with Miguel Riera, one of the local climbers, as the main man in developing the islands potential. Even friends of mine who don't climb ask me if I've ever done any "psicobloc"??? I thought -"wow, this genre really seemes to be in fashion right now, as even non-climbers know of it!". I'd done some in France but Mallorca seemed to be top notch for this kind of activity. So on my way here I thought that at least some time would be used to go solo above the ocean. I finally ended up not doing one single psico climb. Why you might ask? Because the sportclimbing is just so damn good aswell+the locals didn't seeme too psyched. I got a date with Miguel but we went to a bar insted of climbing... 

"Commando Madrid", superclassic 8b i Pertxas.

Since over 10 years back I've read some articles about climbing in Mallorcs or for example Christian Griffith doing some of his best on-sights here. In an old portrait of Yuji (Hirayama) in the french magazine Grimper he has Mallorca as his absolute favourite area. Routenames like "Commando Madrid" and "Football Fan" stuck to my mind (allthought I'm everything but a football fan...) As allways with place you'd thought about going to for along time its something extra to finally arrive there. And then do those, at least in your mind, mythical routes...

tufa fest on "Mr Magoo", 8a+, Gorg Blau.

And as allways, there is more there than you knew of before arriving. Dani, who has spent alot of time here, gave me some tips. But it was finally with the locals, that I got the real treat. Big thanks especially to Pep Sabater who MADE this trip happen for 2 weeks.

Now we are of again. Take the plane back to the mainland, Barcelona -hope the car is still where we left it! Maybe have time for some music in Barca tonight, pic up my friend Anders "Vinränk" Lans and then probably move towards la France once more. The endless voyage continues...

                                           with my boys Juan and Pep in Fragel.

10 years separate these 2 photos of me and Francois Legrand. The first one is taken in les Calaques when I was living in Aix En Provence after finishing high school in the year 2000. The second one is taken in Buoux last weekend at the Escala'Buoux festival. Many things have happened since then but some some will allways be the same. When I left Aix after living there for 6 months I remember Francois saying -"if you stay with climbing I'm sure we will meet again". And here we are as if it was yesterday... we've met several times after I left Aix but now it's 10 years later wich makes, at least me, really sentimental! 

Anyway, after leaving Spain (and soon to return) there has been some festivals going on. First up was the yearly  MelloBlocco bouldering festival in Italy. It attracts over 2000 people so it really feels like a big gathering. I've been there a few times before so I knew what to expect. And the rain didn't seem to stop anyone either. And as usual there was alot of partying and we played with the Sagagnass on the friday eavning. This time we had several guests (well I suppose I'm also a "guest", ey Fouche?) with Nico Favresse on the mandolin, Philippe Ribiere on the mic and Cody Roth finishing the set with style. A great party and the next eavning we were on the dancefloor instead!

Dj Lafouche and Cody behind the decks in Melloblocco.

After Italy I spent some time in Toulouse climbing at the nearby crags and climbing some amazing routes! I was so happy as the rain had stopped and I finally found some climbingpartners who were free! Then we were of again for the festival in Buoux. I was great to meet some friends and also see some real legends such as the Menstrel brothers, JB Tribout, Legrand, Yann Ghesquier etc. They had also reopened and rebolted the ouest sector so there were some real classic to do. And that is appart from all the other routes that were on the list! I was happy to finally do Chouca, Tabou, No Mans Land etc -real benchmarks of their time.

Francois Ze Big on Chouca, 8a+.

flashing a nice and probably classic 8a at the reopened ouest fase in Buoux. photo: Fred Labreveux/Grimper

On the way back west we climbed at Cantobre and La Verriére to get a last taste of France before going back to Spain. Next up will be Rodellar (if it is dry) and then Mallorca. I hope the water will be warm enough for some psicobloc..! And as usual there has been alot of things going on appart from climbing. I was lucky to run (yes -I was out jogging!) into the dosso n'goni (Mande harp lute) maestro Zaky Diarra in Toulouse. So tonight we will have a final jam before checking out of Toulouse -namo!

trying out some fine harps with Zaky before bying a new one. damn, how will all these things fit in my allready PACKED home in Gothenburg..?

So, what is really the simple life? Climbing in itself is sometimes really hard but to able to focus only on that it becomes sort of simple. The climb-eat-sleep life at least sounds pretty simple? Simple and hard doesn't need to be the same thing either... enough of this for now. I'm currently staying with my friends Dani and Andrea who just got a new house and land outside of LLeida (Catalunya, Spain). With so much land you will have to become a farmer -like it or not. But I guess there is a reason why ou choose the country life and leave the city behind. Anyway, the place is still in the centre of all the good climbing and the past time we've spent mostly in Margalef. I was a bit anxious before coming here, wondering if my finger would work in all the hard pocket climbs. But now I'm reliefed as I've done all the little projects I had here; 8b+, 8c, 8c+. As allways these are all just numbers, but its great for your self confidense to know you can pull hard again after a big injury as mine.

 the farmer Dani himself making shure he will have food on the table also tomorrow

I know I've posted a photo of this route before but the line and rock is just so beautiful. 8c, 8c+?

a few 8's a day keeps the doctor away... photo: Laurent Lafouchardiere/Petzl

                                                            photo: Adam Lincoln

I also used the restdays to finally find a teacher in the Chineese violin the Er-Hu in Barcelona. We aslo run into some friends, other good music and too much good food: the asian buffé with all you can eat sushi, candy, ice-cream etc... I've also met all kinds of nice people out here in the mountains who came and went. It's also time for me to move on soon (but to return in a near future). Next stop: Toulouse and then the Melloblocco festival in Val Di Mello in Italy for a music gig with the Sagagnass Sound System and climbing (not like last year when I played and just watched peolpe climb)!

After searching in Paris I finally found him here at the metrostop "Espanya" in Barcelona, the Er-Hu teacher that I have a hard time talking to. He only speaks chineese...

The easygoing beachlife of Barca with an unusually interesting and good street flamencogroup with a blond! flamenco singer. Olé!

After 1,5 month in Gothenburg it was time to hit the road once again. The massive amounts of snow finally started to melt away and it was possible to top out routes and boulders without the help of iceaxes... First up was a 3 week tour with my teacher Christer Bothen in the Stockholm area. I was glad to drive a rental car so digging out my own could wait a bit more. We did 26 gigs+1 recording during this period. Ad training myself+others, some slideshows in Stockholm+Odense (Denmark) and socializing the 3 weeks ended up being a true marathon.

finally touching some stone. my friend Petter Restorp trying a beautiful line just 3 minutes walking from his house in Bohuslan, Sweden.

the on-the-road-office, here at the Stat hotell in Katrineholm during the tour.

                                                    Maestro getting ready for one more show

                                                                             in the studio

                                       an of the set tour gig at Multi Kulti, Stockholm feat. Ismail Essakali

saying goodbye to some friends/musicians and the Restaurant Bazar, the venue where we have been jamming in past. the place is closing down so this was our final jam there...

After the tour I barely had time to stop over in Gothenburg and say goodbye for this time. A final jam at Bazar was the highlight of the weekend. Then dig out and pack the car to go south. First stop was Paris and Fontainebleau. Climbing and music, as usual... last time I was in Font was 10 years ago so it was great to be back. The final night we also went to see my friend Nuru Kane on his releasgig for his new album (www.myspace.com/nurukane). Now we have reached Toulouse wich will be the base for the months to come. Le Tarn/Dourbie/Boffi+Catalunya being just around the corner. The future looks very bright indeed!

my buddy Tonde cleaning up yet another classic in the forest.

Nuru Kane and the Bayefall Gnawa performing at Les 3 Baudets near Pigalle in Paris. !!!

                                                   La Habana -love at first sight...

This years "exotic" trip went to Cuba and Mexico with Cuba being the first stop. First up was, of course, the mythical city of La Habana. This city and all the other places we visited in Cuba was unlike any other place I've been to so far: no comercials, nothing fancy, nothing new -no bullshit! Just old buildings, old cars, music and dance everywhere, you eat whatever there is still left on the meny. For someone like me, who is all about old school, this was The place. You could write several books about this place or read the ones that are allready written. But this place has to bee exerienced if you get the chance. So. We didn't spend our time slacking. We walked the streets, went out for salsa music and dance (I just happend to be travelling with two salsa experts!), ate whatever was available and also went climbing at the "el Morro" fort in the Habana habour.

the spirit of "el Che" lives on...

doing some wicked routes on the "el Morro" fort with La Habana and the sunset in the background. Magic.

taking a "batido" (milkshake) by the end of the day near China Town i La Habana. the guy to the left is Pellin, my timbale drum teacher who just climbed for the first time a few hours earlier.

El Morro was great fun but I didn't travell all the way here only to climb on historical buildings... Next stop was the center of Cuban climbing -the Vinales valley. Home of a couple of hundreds of routes, and hundreds of mosquitoes! I had a great time, despite the mosquitoes though. There was a small but great small community of local climbers and also a bunch of travellers so finding climbingpartners was no biggie. The ocean was not too far away to cool you down on restdays. And the nightclub with live music on the main plaza rocked every night. For more info, check out: www.cubaclimbing.com.

the beauty of the Vinales valley. it reminded me a bit of Yangshuo in China. photo: Yarobis Garcia

climbing at the Palenque sector with parts of team Vinales/Cuba, Canada and Sweden below. photo: Olivier Ouellette

finally feeling it a bit. here sending Cubas testpiece, the "One Inch Punch" 8b+. maybe a bit in the soft end of the scale but who cares? The perfect route! photo: Yarobis Garcia

After Vinales it was time to celebrate x-mas so we headed to the city of Matanzas to meet some good friends. I also found a bit music going on, the roots of afrocuban batá drumming. Then it was time to leave Cuba for this time. Next stop was climbing in northern Mexico: El Potrero Chico and el Salto. But in between some quality time in the Mexican caribbean on the Yucatan peninsula.

jamming with the sacred batá drummers in Matanzas. this is a big part of the afrocuban Santeria cult and the roots of rumba music.

taking a break in Tulum near Cancún in the Mexican caribbean. great freediving/reefs just 5 minutes swimming from the beach. and the great drinks and food wasn't too far either!

Arriving in Monterrey, the closest big city to all the climbing, we started asking our selves what the hell we were doing there? The temps had dropped about 20-30 degrees from the caribbeans. I know I hoped for cooler temps in Vinales but this was a bit too much. The worst morning was when I woke up with -something in the air and snow on the tent... but the time we had in the Monterrey area (Potrero and el Salto) was a blast nevertheless.

Potrero Chico by night. photo: Sean Leader

on another great 8b, on the las Animas wall in el Salto. photo: Sean Leader

trying to stay warm in our little cave that we used as a livingroom in el Salto. coming up on the laptop is the 80's classic "American Ninja" starring Michael Dudikoff. but don't worry, you can also rent cabins in el Salto, but with no heating. photo: Dirk Smith

On our way home we had some final days in the Cancún area, just to melt a bit before heading for a snowcovered and icy cold Sweden. The journey continues...

running laps for the cameras on the classic "White Rastafarian".

Was this my 6th or 7th time in north America? I started loosing track... but hey, the amount of times is not at all important. The experience has been great every time and this one didn't let me down either.

This trip started of in Joshua Tree. I worked but mostly climbed (fortunately in this case -it's the same thing!) for one of my main sponsors Peak Performance. We shoot and filmed both bouldering, sport and trad and in some cases what I would call solo. For example the highball "So Hight" I guess would be described as new school highball bouldering? Anyway, it was a great week with a great posse and a classic final with caraoke at the Joshua Tree saloon. 

In Joshua Tree I also met Matt Smith and we teamed up for the road. Next stop: Bishop and Yosemite Valley!

Matt on another classic: "Ironman Traverse" at the Buttermilks, Bishop.

maybe not AS classic but perfect nevertheless: some pocket traverse up in the Happy boulders, Bishop.

ending the day with this beautiful overhanging arét. Thank's Matt, Lisa and Wills for the patience and spotting..!

In Bishop, we stayed with some local friends Wills Young and Lisa Rands. Maybe the best guides to guide you around if you have limited time in Bishop (and it goes without saying that they are great company too!)? We also me Fred Nicole and Mary Gabrieli and we had a nice day up at a high elevation spot near Mammoth.

Lisa working something hard up in the snow.

you don't need to worry when you have this guy watching your ass!

fine dining with Matt, Mary, Lisa, Fred, me and Wills (behind the camera).

Then, it was time for Yosetime. I was here last time exactly 10 year ago so it was really nostalgic to enter the park and camp 4.

There was a few things I wanted to do back in the Valley. Midninght Lightning was one of them. I couldn't figure out how to do the last mantle back in -99. And as it turned out, I almost didn't quite understand this time either... but finally, totally trashed after 5 days on climbing, it clicked. Thank's Randy and Noah for the beta! We then had us some fine Taco Bell burritos and headed for L.A. and a last day in Cali.

waiting for David Hasselhof to take over the shift at Venice beach.

After a real treat (thank's Chris!) in L.A. with all the must do's it was time to move on to Boulder (once again). As I stood there on the airport in L.A. in my wet shorts, fresh after a nice swim, and saw the snowdump weather repport from Colorado, it didn't feel quite right to leave the beach behind!

back at my good old friend Christian Griffiths new house in Boulder.

climbing some quality sandstone at the Industrial Wall. Man -allthough I've been here so many times before I was surprised by some of the superb routes I did on this trip.

But the weater was finally perfect! I climbed with old and new friends, some really really good routes! But everything has sooner or later come to an end... Heading back home in one on CG's cars.

at the TAB finals rockin' with Lafouche in l'Argentierre la Bessée

I'm finally back in my old elements! And some new one's aswell. The trip to France included 2 great gigs at the TAB festival (www.toutablocs.com) with Lafouche and the country and western group the Norberg Family. I then headed for Ceuse where restdays were reare. I've climbed for 3 weeks with 3 restdays and they involved music, flying and skydiving. Maybe you rest physically but the skydive took my breath away...

the great walls of Ceuse that we also took a closer look at from a plane. Thank's Steve!

back climbing those good old juggy 7c's

taking a look at Ceuse from yet another angle!

Back (again!) in Sweden and Gothenburg everything went back to normal. Climbing the good old routes+some new ones, some great gig's and bolting some future classics. I hope to repport about this new amazing place next time!

back in Gotheburg at the great balkan club at "Storan".

back in Stockholm at the Vox Pacis festival (ww.voxpacis.com) at Sofiakyrkan with parts of my band TREQ-gnawa feat. the mythical singer from Senegal -Mamadou Séné.

playing the dosso n'goni (hunters harp) with my good old band dating 12 years back -Giddabush with Said Bijaouane as a guest.

It was time for a little tour: London-Paris-Grenoble (St Hilaire/Crolles)-Val Di Mello. But before that a little party at my house wich always includes bbq+loads of music.

                                                 tightly packed musicians at my tiny place in GBG

First up was London: visit friends, plays music with the soon to be hot hot band Noxshi and go sightseeing in a rather athletic way: running.

                                                the borough of Highbury Islington in ultrarapid

Then Paris for more old friends, a taste of Africa in Europe, more music and more running!

                                                               Is this true, rue de Tombouctou???

                                                Paris gnawa as in the band "Global Gnawa" live n' direct

more running in the neighbourhood of "Barbés". You seriously start wondering wich continent you are in while visiting this place

I then went south to visit Petzl, do a video/music recording and hang out at Lafouche's place (this place makes me wonder why I'm still based in Gothenburg?) for a few day before moving on to Italy. 

Jorg, Cody, Nalle, Sean and Daniel NOT understanding one thing: it's harder NOT to climb than climb..!

More mountains. I just love the great atmosphere at the Melloblocco festival (located in Val Di Mello, just north of Milano). Meeting good old friends, playing a concert with the Sagagnass SoundSystem and moore running...

Friday night's concert with the Sagagnass SoundSystem. It was about time they let us play here, right Lafouche?

Back in Gothenburg it was time for moore running. I did the classic "Göteborgsvarvet" -the worlds largest half marathon. So what's next? -moore running to deal with the angst of not climbing. And once again: "it's harder NOT to climb than climb!" Go figure...